Islands in the Sun: Malta & Gozo

My favourite place to visit in the whole wide world is a little spot called Xlendi Bay, on the tiny Maltese island of Gozo.

Gozo is part of the Republic of Malta, as is the even smaller island of Comino. All three are huddled together in the Mediterranean, and Gozo is easily reachable by regular ferry crossings from Malta — or, if you’re feeling fancy, by helicopter charter.

Malta has one of the best climates on the planet. Summers are long, dry, and golden, while most of the rain falls in the mild, sunny winters. It’s the kind of weather that makes you forget what month it is — in the best way.

Each time I arrive, I find myself thinking, Why did I want to come here again? Malta can seem a little tumble-down at first, and there’s not much greenery. But after a day or two, I remember. Malta has something — a feeling — that seeps quietly into your soul.

It’s the easygoing pace of life, the comforting familiarity of driving on the left, red letter boxes, and English-speaking locals — all set against a rich backdrop of Arabic and Italian influences, layered with thousands of years of history. These islands have been part of the Phoenician, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Norman, French, and British empires before gaining independence in 1964. Today, Malta is a member of both the Commonwealth and the European Union.

Malta does have sandy beaches, despite the rumours. Golden Bay, Paradise Bay, and Mellieħa Bay are favourites in the north. But many locals prefer to swim from the smooth, golden rocks that edge much of the coast. Iron ladders provide easy access to the deep, clear waters. The flat rock shelves are also perfect for picnics — far less chance of getting sand in your sandwiches!

The sea around Malta is brilliant for diving and snorkelling. It’s the only place I’ve ever seen seahorses in the wild. At a little spot called Għar Lapsi, tucked down a bumpy lane past a few fish restaurants, you’ll find photos of a legendary 7.2-metre great white shark caught nearby in 1987 — allegedly the largest ever seen in the Mediterranean. The tale lives on, but it hasn’t stopped divers from visiting!

On dry land, life is just as captivating. In towns and villages, you’ll still find residents sitting outside their homes, chatting with neighbours, maybe doing a bit of lace-making, whittling, or preparing vegetables. The homes are mostly made of a warm, honey-coloured limestone — a reminder that Malta may have derived its name from the Greek word melite, meaning “honey-sweet.” The islands are still famous for their honey, by the way.

One of the most picturesque sights is the traditional luzzu boats — brightly painted fishing vessels bobbing gently in the harbours, each with a pair of painted eyes on the bow: the Eye of Osiris, thought to protect the boat and its crew. Nowhere is this more magical than the fishing harbour of Marsaxlokk, in the southeast of Malta. Visit on a Sunday morning for the fish market and a walk along the quayside — the colourful boats, the scent of salt and grilling swordfish, and the gentle lapping of the sea combine into something unforgettable.

If you’re travelling with kids, a favourite family stop is Popeye Village at Anchor Bay — the original set from the 1980 Popeye film starring Robin Williams. It’s now a quirky little theme park with boat rides, shows, and amusements.

But if you’re looking for something a little quieter, more rural, and timeless — take the short ferry ride to Gozo.

Gozo is greener, sleepier, and absolutely enchanting. The food alone is worth the trip. Every restaurant we tried seemed better than the last. One Sunday, Rob and I were indecisive, so we asked the Attard family at Smugglers Restaurant to cook what they’d eat themselves for lunch. I was served a traditional rabbit stew, and Rob had pork loin. Both dishes were rich, simple, and absolutely delicious. Rabbit is one of the most popular meats here — hearty and full of flavour.

Gozo is also home to one of the oldest freestanding monuments in the world: the Ġgantija Temples. These megalithic structures are even older than the Egyptian pyramids, dating back over 5,500 years. Walking through the site feels like stepping into the dawn of civilisation. It’s an awe-inspiring reminder of just how long people have lived, worshipped, and thrived on these islands.

Another must-see is Calypso’s Cave, overlooking Ramla Bay. According to Greek legend, this is where the nymph Calypso kept Odysseus enchanted for seven years. Whether or not the myth is true, the views are certainly spellbinding.

And then there’s Xlendi Bay — the place I love most in the world.

I can’t quite explain it. It’s not the most stunning place I’ve been to. But it’s the way it makes me feel. Xlendi is small and tranquil, tucked between steep cliffs. There’s a reef in the bay with old shipwrecks, and cave houses carved into the rock — some still lived in.

Xlendi is peaceful, authentic, and quietly captivating. I always find it hard to leave. I hope you love it as much as I do, if you ever go.

And one last thing — don’t leave without trying the prickly pear jam. It’s as sweet and surprising as the islands themselves.