Islands in the Sun: Rhodes

When I was at school, one of my favourite subjects was literature, particularly Greek mythology. I vowed to visit Greece and all the places the ancient poet Homer wrote about in The Iliad and The Odyssey.

In 1994, I finally made a start on that quest. My first visit to Greece was to the island of Rhodes.. We booked accommodation that would be allocated on arrival, and to be honest, we were hoping for somewhere quiet and romantic, off the beaten track. So we were a little disappointed to find ourselves in the bustling resort of Faliraki for two weeks.

Faliraki was (and still is) the island’s main party resort — although to be fair, it also caters well to families. The 5 km stretch of golden beach is great for kids, and there are plenty of water sports available. Faliraki is home to one of the largest water parks in Europe, and tourists can find all sorts of restaurants, including Chinese, Indian, British, Mexican, and of course, traditional Greek tavernas.

We decided to explore the rest of the island. Although getting around by bus is easy (there’s a main road that loops around the island, and buses run regularly), we decided to hire a scooter for three days. As if that wasn’t a daft enough idea, we also rode it without proper protection. I think we must have had our brains confiscated at the airport as we passed through customs. It’s true the hire shop didn’t offer crash helmets — but it’s also true that we didn’t ask for them.

You just know I’m going to tell you we had an accident on that scooter, don’t you? Luckily, we didn’t break any bones, but we did rip large areas of skin off our knees and hands. I would seriously discourage anyone from hiring a scooter on holiday unless you’re properly kitted out. The roads in places like Rhodes can be uneven, with potholes and loose gravel. We started to notice lots of other people with bandages like ours, so clearly, we weren’t the only ones whose holiday had been slightly spoiled.

We took the scooter back and hired a car instead!

Lindos: Timeless Beauty on a Hill

One of the first places we drove to was Lindos, a beautiful old town founded by the Dorians in the 10th century BC.

Cars aren’t allowed into Old Lindos. Its whitewashed houses, cobbled streets, and charming alleyways are protected under a preservation order, which means nothing can disturb its authentic Greek character. Lindos has a vibrant nightlife, more sophisticated than Faliraki’s.

At the top of the steep town sits the Acropolis of Lindos, where you’ll find the remains of the Doric Temple of Athena Lindia, dating from around 300 BC, along with Byzantine and medieval structures, including the Castle of the Knights of St. John. It’s well worth the walk — or donkey ride — up to the top, where the views across St. Paul’s Bay are absolutely breathtaking.

Rhodes Town: Where History Meets the Sea

At the northern tip of the island is Rhodes Town, which is split into two parts: the old town and the modern city.

The old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, rich with evidence of its layered history — from the classical Greek and Roman periods, to the Byzantine, Crusader, Italian, and Ottoman eras. It’s one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Europe.

Wandering the old town in the evening is magical. There are enchanting small restaurants, cobbled alleyways, and stylish shops that stay open late into the night. If you stroll around Mandraki Harbour, you can admire the luxury yachts and traditional fishing boats. From here, day trips to Turkey (often Marmaris) and nearby Greek islands are available. Symi, with its pastel-coloured harbour and quiet charm, is particularly worth a visit — but that’s a story for another time!

The Colossus 

Rhodes Town is most famously associated with the Colossus of Rhodes, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. This giant bronze statue of Helios, the Greek god of the sun, stood at the harbour’s entrance — or possibly nearby — until it was destroyed by an earthquake around 226 BC. Sadly, nothing of the statue remains today. (Of the Seven Wonders, only the Great Pyramid of Giza still survives.)

We returned to Rhodes several times in recent years, sometimes to visit our friends Helen and John, who had bought an old village house to restore and live in. Their village is a little way inland, and they live a simple life, just like the locals — getting involved in olive harvesting and other traditional activities.

All around Rhodes, you’ll find beautiful beaches perfect for relaxing and charming tavernas where you can enjoy a refreshing drink and simple, delicious Greek cuisine. That first trip to a Greek island inspired me to explore more — and I soon discovered that each island is different. But Rhodes has remained one of my favourites.